So, like I said before, I had a great time in Naples at the beginning of the month. The best part of Naples, in my opinion, is how easy it is to leave it and see something else. Namely Pompeii and Herculaneum. I was going with a non-Classicist friend and we had a smashing time looking at all the old houses.
Herculaneum and Pompeii are very similar, but also quite different. Herculaneum’s excavations are much smaller, so it’s harder to lose yourself in the idea that you’re back in time. Still, Pompeii’s colours have faded more than Herculaneum’s, so it’s a more vibrant place. Still, it’s all down to personal choice.
The Pompeiian Baths
House of the Marine Venus
Mary Beard makes the very good point that Venus looks a bit silly here, but believe it or not, this isn’t the only painting of Venus in this style in the Bay of Naples…
Garden of the Fugitives
From this point, the only things you can see are ancient. Even the vineyard has been planted as it had been in ancient times. The only main difference is that, apart from the ruination, Vesuvius doesn’t have one single peak as it did in antiquity- an explosion blew the top right off.
Graffiti in Herculaneum
This really shocked me in Herculaneum- modern graffiti seemed to be everywhere. Message to all modern defacers of antiquity: I don’t care when you were here, who you’re in love with or where you’re from. If you must write it, write it on the incredibly plentiful amounts of modern paint in the town. *Then* maybe an archaeologist will find it and it will be interesting, rather than just illegal.
Edit: There is, of course, lots of ancient graffiti there as well, but that’s allowed.
Venus Kallipygos
Another great feature of Naples is its incredble archaeological museum, with the amazing Farnese collection. It was wonderful to see all these artefacts I’ve written about for years but have never seen in the flesh. This gorgeous lady is Venus Kallipygos, which is Greek for ‘nice bottom’. I love this statue- it’s playful, original and, most importantly, it’s laughing at the viewer.
I had a great time abroad, with great pizza, wine and company. I might put up more photos later if anyone’s interested!
When I was about 12, I went through a huge Pompeii faze: abolustely fascinated by it. We must have had a unit in school. But I know nothing about Herculaneum.
It sounds like a beautiful place! I can’t believe that graffiti.
Question for you: I’d like to link to your “encyclopedia” for an upcoming blogging carnival about “really old classics.” It’s just such a great post for those intimidated by classics. Let me know if that’s alright.
rebecca [at] rebeccareid [dot] com